My moving trip to Krakow

In May, I went on a trip that affected me in many ways. Poland wasn’t somewhere I’d imagined would move me so deeply, but it did – for so many reasons. In just a few days, I packed in beautiful scenery, hearty food, moments of pure joy, and the most heart-wrenching visit I’ve ever undertaken – Auschwitz.

This blog shares what I did, what I felt, and offers some handy tips if you’re planning a similar trip.

Getting There

Watch Your Bag Size! We flew with Ryanair and it did exactly what it needed to do – got us there safely and on time. BUT – and it’s a big but – make sure you double-check the bag size allowance.

Ryanair’s under-seat bag is smaller than other airlines, and they don’t bend the rules. Measure, weigh and be strict or it’ll cost you.

From Krakow Airport, we hopped on the train straight into the city. It was clean, quick, and only around £7 for the two of us. From the station, it was a short 12-minute walk to our accommodation.

Day One: Cherry Surprises & Pierogi Perfection

We decided to go for a wander to get our bearings. We made our way to the Old Town with its cobbled streets and grand buildings. We came across a charming little bar that specialised in cherry liqueur - this turned into a real treat!

We had mozzarella cheese balls and a traditional smoked cheese (I’ve since learned it’s called oscypek), slightly crispy on the outside and rich in flavour. Then came the cherry liqueur chocolates – dark chocolate shells filled with warm cherry goodness that oozed out with every bite. Heaven!

For dinner, we tucked into pierogi filled with sauerkraut – proper soul food and the perfect way to start the trip.

Day Two: Auschwitz-Birkenau & Wieliczka Salt Mines

This was the most emotionally intense day – something I’ll carry with me forever.

We booked a guided tour with hotel pick-up, combining Auschwitz-Birkenau and the Wieliczka Salt Mines. If you’re short on time, it’s doable in one day (about 11 hours), but it’s a lot – physically and emotionally. I’d honestly recommend doing them on separate days if you can.

Auschwitz-Birkenau

It’s difficult to put into words what visiting Auschwitz does to you. You can read all the books and watch the documentaries, but nothing compares to walking through those gates and realising how many never walked out again.

You see the suitcases with names still on them, lovingly packed by people who believed they were going somewhere better. You see glasses, shoes, and the most devastating of all – piles of human hair, shaved from heads moments before people were sent to their deaths. It hits you like a wave – the humanity that was stripped away from people, the cruelty they faced, and the sheer scale of it.

Birkenau – with its rows of wooden barracks and long railway tracks – feels hauntingly quiet. We stood inside a gas chamber. I can’t explain the heaviness in the air. At one point, I looked at a display with hundreds of baby shoes, and I had to step away. It’s utterly heart-breaking.

A guide told us how many people clung to hope even as they arrived, unaware of what was about to happen. The cruelty wasn’t just in what was done – it was in how it was hidden.

If you’re visiting, book early – it gets busy. But more importantly, give yourself time afterwards to decompress. It’s a visit that leaves a permanent imprint.

Salt Mines – A Different Kind of Wonder

After something so heavy, the Wieliczka Salt Mines offered a complete contrast. We descended over 300 steps into a world made entirely of salt – including chapels, statues, and even chandeliers.

These mines go down around 135 metres and have been worked on since the 13th century. It’s cool (literally and metaphorically!) to see how miners created an underground city from salt. You’re walking through history – and it’s beautiful.

That evening, we found a cosy Irish bar in the Main Square (as you do!) for a quick drink, before heading to a local Polish restaurant for dinner and more delicious pierogi. Much needed after such a long day.

Day Three: Snowy Zakopane & Local Flavours

Time to head into the mountains! We took a day trip to Zakopane, and – believe it or not – it snowed! In mid-May! So top tip: pack layers and warm clothes if you’re heading there before the end of May.

On the way, we stopped at a traditional wooden house museum, where we saw how Polish highlanders used to live – complete with musical instruments and local costumes.

Next stop was a small food hut where we tried cooked chilli cheese and a flavoured vodka that was light, sweet, and only 26% – more like a liqueur. So good we brought a bottle home!

In Zakopane, we took the funicular up Gubałówka Hill for snowy mountain views and wandered around the wooden market stalls. It’s a picture-perfect place – even better with a sprinkle of snow.

Day Four: Schindler’s Factory & the Jewish Quarter

On our final full day, we dove deeper into Krakow’s history. We did a skip-the-line tour of Schindler’s Factory, which lasted about 90 minutes. It was fascinating, but if I did it again, I’d start with the tour and then go back around myself to take in more of the displays at my own pace. There’s so much to absorb.

Next, we explored the Jewish Quarter, stopping at Ghetto Heroes Square, where empty metal chairs stand as a stark reminder of those who were forced into the ghetto. Each chair represents 1,000 lives. It’s such a simple but powerful tribute.

We also discovered Wawel Castle, wandered through quiet streets, stopped for coffee and a glass of wine, and soaked in Krakow’s charm. It’s a city best explored on foot, but when your feet need a break, the trams are brilliant. Cheap, reliable, and easy to use – just grab tickets from machines or kiosks before boarding.

Day Five: One Last Burst of Adrenaline

With a late flight, we popped our luggage in storage and made the most of our last hours. I ended up doing something a bit different – rifle shooting at a local range. A fun little adrenaline kick before heading back into town.

We took one final tram ride through the city, wandered through the Old Town and Jewish Quarter one last time, and enjoyed a quiet glass of wine near the castle before heading to the airport. The train back was easy as anything – quick, clean, and a stress-free end to an unforgettable trip.

Nikki’s Top Tips

• Pack for all weathers if heading to Zakopane before June – it can still snow!

• Do Auschwitz-Birkenau – it’s hard, but necessary. And give yourself time to process.

• Book Auschwitz in advance – either directly or via a tour with pick-up.

• Consider doing Auschwitz and the salt mines on separate days to take it all in properly.

• Try the cherry liqueur and chocolates – they’re divine.

• Use the trams – they’re cheap, simple, and great for tired legs.

• Walk as much as you can – Krakow is stunning on foot.

• Eat pierogi. Then eat more pierogi.

Poland took me by surprise. It broke my heart and warmed it all at once. If you’re thinking of going – whether for the history, the food, the mountains, or all three – I’d love to help you plan it.